Degustation with tranquility - Burgundy

     After a hectic March due to an unexpected, unplanned trip to India, we needed a place to get away, to slow down and rejuvenate. A cross-channel road trip through the famous Burgundy region sounded like just that kind of trip. 

     An hour and half drive from our house took us to the Eurotunnel terminal at Folkestone and before we knew it, I was driving our car into a train that was going to take us under the English Channel, through a 38 km long undersea tunnel! The 35 minute trip in one of human kind's crowning glories of engineering achievements went by quick and we emerged onto a sunny Spring afternoon  at the Calais terminal in France. 

     Driving out of the terminal, we got onto the busy A1 motorway and started the 503 km journey though the heartland of France. The steady traffic of loaded lorries and fast cars with license plates from countries all over Europe had us frustrated as we were falling behind schedule. Getting off the A1 and on to the A6 - Autoroute du Soleil (Motorway of the Sun) however, the landscape changed to rolling hills with large fields in  varying shades of green alternating with blazing yellow rapeseed fields. On the horizon, white windmills stood guard while grey and white clouds played tag with the sun. Our bucolic road trip had begun!

As we made our way through the hills and vales of France crisscrossed with small rivers and streams every few miles, the landscape was agricultural, but no vineyards were in view. We were headed to the famed Cote d’Or, home of the haughty Burgundy wines but there was not a grapevine in sight. What we did see were herds of white Charolais cows, dirty sheep and handsome horses grazing to their hearts’ content. Soon, we were driving through tiny medieval villages with ancient stone houses, leafy squares around the village church with its characteristic slate steeples and musical names like Sauvigny, Joux de Ville and Lucy le-Bois eventually to Avallon and our destination - a farmhouse converted to a charming bed and breakfast. We had been on the road for more than 9 hours and it was time for dinner and an early night.  

     With no sight-seeing stops on the agenda, this trip was about driving through the hills and vales of the French countryside, stopping on the side of the road to ‘frolic in the fields’ as the kids called it and tasting the famed Burgundy wines in tiny family-owned Domaines. We met some of the friendliest people anywhere in Europe as we drove on the Route des Grand Crus passing villages with names seen on wine-bottle labels around the world - Chablis, Vosnee-Romanee, Aloxe-Corton, Nuits Saint George, Gevrey-Chembertin. We explored vineyards with inviting signs for  degustations. We listened as a passionate vigneron explained the essence of Burgundy wines. How unlike Bordeaux wines which depend on the skill of the winemaker, the wines here are entirely a reflection of the terroir where the grape comes from - the composition of the soil, the water and the air where the plant grows. We learnt how the location of the vine -  whether at the crest of a hill, along the sloping sides or in the shade of a rocky hilltop makes the difference between a cheap-ish, everyday-at-6pm Village, medium priced yet lofty Premier Cru or  the high and mighty, only-open-it-for-anniversary or to impress your neighbor Grand Cru.

                            

We walked through ancient towns of Vezelay, Comarrin, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, admiring the pointed slate steeples of churches that looked like the tops of medieval helmets, drove along the river Yonne and Burgundy canal that nourish this verdant valley, explored the hilltop castle of the Duke of Burgundy at Chateauneuf-en-Auxois and walked along the ruins of Alise-Saint-Reine where Vercingetorix, the last king of Gauls, fought an epic battle again Julius Caesar. 

     There was time for some ‘sight-seeing’ in the charming town of Beaune, in the form of the Hospices du Beaune. Founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin as a charitable hospital for the poor, it is now a museum and an excellent showcase of 15th century French architecture. The glazed tile roofs of red, brown, green and yellow tiles laced together in intricate patterns is a trademark of Burgundy architecture. A visit to a local antiques fair and shopping ended another gorgeous day in Bourgogne. 

So, let us talk about the food, shall we? Obviously I am not the first person to rave about French food, but eaten here on the land where it grows, without the pretense of a Paris bistro or cafe, your tastebuds take your soul to a sublime place where the nothing can go wrong. Whether it was home-made, creamy foie gras, or fresh salad dressed with a drizzle of truffle oil or perfectly cooked duck confit or fall-of the bone beef bourgogone, Jambon perseille, Oeuf en gelee, Oeuf en meurette - perfectly poached eggs in a silky red wine sauce or the cheeses - firm and creamy Comte, the sharp Tonnerre or the prickly Epoisses….this list is a long one. The chefs here are quite comfortable with their cooking skills to experiment with unusual ingredients in traditional dishes like a dash of ginger syrup in a light vinaigrette or curry powder on perfectly cooked Potato Parmentiers. But there is such a thing as too much of a good thing, I suppose and we found ourselves seeking out the familiar banality of McDonald’s, KFC(Kentucky French Chicken) and Subway for lunch a few times, although we stayed true to the mood of our trip by washing them down with the local Vueve Ambal!

We said au revoir  to the peaceful Bourgogne region with a renewed appreciation of the rural life, a life led close to the land and in harmony with nature. And wishing we had more time to indulge in this pastoral, peaceful way of life,  we powered up the GPS and plotted our route to the predictable chaos of real life.

A Trip to Portugal - Lisbon and Sintra

     Tucked away in the southwest corner of Europe, Portugal is an unassuming gem that has not yet received its due as a premier tourist destination. Before this trip, all I knew about Portugal was what I had learnt in social studies class in school - that it was the home of  Vasco da Gama, the first European to land on India’s shores. With the promise of mild weather in the middle of February and a chance to go to the beach, a week long trip to Portugal was planned. This account also gives me a chance to showcase the photographic talents of my travel partner and all-around gentleman, Partha Chakrabarti.

     Mary McCarthy, the American novelist wrote "Any Portuguese town looks like bride's finery - something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue". To discover that for ourselves, we planned  a two part itinerary - first stop was the capital city of Lisbon and nearby Sintra followed by a road trip to the popular Algarve coast and back up to the monastery towns of Alcobaca and Batalha to complete the loop. 

     Befitting any European capital city, Lisbon has its modern side with excellent infrastructure, modern buildings and public transportation. But it is the Old town comprised of Alfama, Bairro Alto/Chiado and Baixa that exudes the charm of old world Portugal. 

      Narrow cobblestone roads lead up and down steep hills, tiny trams and funiculars jostling for space with tiny tuk-tuks whizzing past laid back pedestrians, spectacular tile work- azulejos- on walls of buildings topped with red terra cotta tiles, tiny houses squeezed next to restaurants serving bacalhau da bras, grilled sardines, arroz do mariscal and pasteis de natal. World famous retail chains sell trendy clothes and accessories next to old stores selling traditional painted ceramic roosters, cotton fabrics with intricate embroidery and lacework, tablecloths and purses made of cork, and tiles. 

           

     Tiles are everywhere is Lisbon. Elaborate nautical scenes painted on ceramic glazed tiles in blue and white, art deco patterns in brown and green, and biblical vignettes in red and gold adorn the walls of churches and office buildings alike. Whether it is the Cervejaria Trindade, a cavernous erstwhile monastery converted into a brewery and cheery beer hall or a fountain on the sunlit  terrace in the Jardim Julio de Castilho, art here is expressed not just on canvas or linen but also on ceramic tiles.

                                    

Walking is certainly the best way to explore the alleyways of this charming old town is to walk and alleys, stopping at the numerous mirador-s (view points) and gardens and the small kiosks for a quick sip of delicious port wine.

Pic: Partha Chakrabarti

Pic: Partha Chakrabarti

     With a 1,115 mile long coastline along the Atlantic Ocean, nautical exploration and naval might has featured heavily in Portugal’s history. The Caravel, a small highly maneuverable sailing ship along with two crows features in the coat of arms of Lisbon and the armillary sphere is present on Portugal’s flag. It was no surprise then that it was a Portguese explorer, Vasco Da Game who eventually succeeded in finding out the naval route to India.  He is held in high regard everywhere is Portugal, especially in Lisbon. He is entombed in a shrine in the magnificent Jeronimo’s monastery in Belem and a large statue of him stands alongside that of Marquis de Pombal, on the arch at the Prada de Commercio. The Marquis was who was responsible for the quick and successful reconstruction of Lisbon after a massive earthquake flattened the city in 1755. 

     Jeronimo’s monastery is a splendid example of Portuguese Neo-Gothic Manueline style of architecture. Named after King Manuel I under whom it developed in the late 14h century, this decorative style employs intricately carved stonework in portals, niches, columns and ceiling featuring maritime themes, armillary spheres, botanical and Christian themes as well as images and influences from newly explored lands.    

                                                     

While the Praca do Commercio at the end of Baixa, a wide open square along the Rio Tagus, welcomes the visitors to this quaint and unassuming city, the Castelo do Sao Jorge stands guard at it’s highest point. 

Dating back to the medieval times, this Moorish castle has been used by successive  Portuguese royals as a residence and as a show of their military might. Though most of what remains now are ruins, this citadel complex offers some of the best views of the city of Lisbon. 

     A short 30 minute drive to mountains north of Lisbon took us to the town of Sintra. This small town hosts many of Portugal’s national monuments and has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Our destination has been described on the internet and guide books as 'Disney-esque', brightly colored castle on the top of a hill. 

      As the summer palace of the Portuguese royalty up until the early 20th century, the Pena Palace is an adorable dollhouse in bright red, yellow and blue, topped with domes, clock towers and terraces. Built in the Romantic style in the early 1800s, this national monument started its life as a chapel and monastery for the monks of the order of St. Jerome. After the earthquake of 1755, King Ferdinand II acquired the monastery and the land surrounding it and commissioned the construction of the present day palace. Moorish arches and domes are mixed with Neo-Manueline stone work on classic Gothic columns and topped with gargoyles. This is a fantasy land, where the best elements of art and architecture over two centuries is displayed with wild abandon. From the statue of Triton showing the allegory of creation to the arches of the Queen’s terraces, the beauty carries on inside as well. The Royal chapel with its exquisite alabaster carved altar, azulejos adorning every wall, stucco and masterfully painted walls and ceiling serve as phenomenal backdrop for exquisitely carved furniture and everyday objects.