Tamil Nadu Part 2 - Seeking (and finding) Peace in Puducherry (Pondicherry).

     As we drive past the checkpoint in the middle of the road that welcomes us to Puducherry, my first reaction is “Huh"

This looks exactly like the rest of Tamil Nadu that we have been driving through for the past few days. I had done my research, and I knew that the Union territory of Puducherry, also known as Pondicherry, was different than the state in which it is geographically located. A French colony since 1674, Puducherry retained French rule even after India got independence from the British rule, all the way until 1954.  

    But I am a believer; I peer out through the window as we whiz past a whole lot of colleges, state buildings, parks, and markets and eventually the traffic thins out and slows down. The streets get narrower and heavily shaded by large trees, the buildings lining those streets, no longer high rises or modern concrete but brightly colored single- or two-storey structures in marigold yellow with white trim, frolicking fuchsia, teal, grays, reds, midnight blues – all the colors on the palette. Soon the GPS directs us to turn left on “Surcouf St” then right on “Rue de L’eveche,” continue on to “Dumas St’ and reach the destination on “Bazaar Saint Laurent St.” Indeed, we had arrived in the Old Town or White Town of Puducherry.

                              

This town is all about the vibes. Sure, there are a few sightseeing spots that highlight the French colonial past as well as multiple must-see buildings that showcase the confluence of Tamil and French architecture, so put it on your list, but the best way to enjoy the Old Town is to stroll down the streets, without a map, starting at the Promenade.  The streets are lined with cafes and bakeries and artists studios, building the chill vibe that I (and all the other tourists) associate with Puducherry. 

                                       

Walk along the Bay of Bengal on The Promenade, look away from the water and experience the multitudes that this quiet town has to offer. 

The Aurobindo Ashram, a residential spiritual community funded by Sri Aurobindo, an Indian nationalist philosopher and yogi along with his spiritual collaborator Mira Alfassa is next to the Place de la Republic, a historic square originally built to commemorate the French governor Francois Dupleix but now holds a statue to Mahatma Gandhi along with six massive rock-cut ornate pillars that feature traditional Hindu sculptures. Cross the park and you are face to face with the bright pink Greco-Roman facade of the Our Lady of Angels Church.

   

    Other than strolling through Old Town, snacking on croissants from the bakeries, and window-shopping at the art galleries, one activity you will want to set aside a lot of time for is dining. Pondicherry boasts many restaurants serving local Tamil cuisine to French Tamil cuisine to French fine dining.    

 

    Drive about a half hour (according to the GPS) north of the Old Town, you reach Auroville, an experimental community, which touts itself as a ‘Universal town where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony above all creeds, all politics and all nationalities.' You can stay here overnight to experience the community and all it has to offer but we, as all time-strapped tourists, only had an afternoon to spare and we spent it exploring the campus and visitor center and walking up to the enormous golden orb – The Matri mandir. It is not hard to let yourself be bathed with the soothing glory of unadulterated nature, undisturbed by the noises and distractions of modern living, even if you are just walking up the path to the viewing platform. Note to self - come back at least for a weekend, stay here and spend time in the concentration chamber inside the Matrimandir.